Fixture pricing isn't one number — it depends on what's failing, what you want to replace it with, and what's happening upstream of the fixture. A dripping kitchen faucet might be a $125 cartridge. A shower valve replacement is closer to $1,000. Everything in between is on this page.
Use the selector below to find your specific situation, or scroll through to browse everything. Prices are Phoenix labor rates — parts vary by fixture and we'll tell you exactly what we're using before we start.
Most kitchen faucet problems are wear issues — a dripping spout, a loose handle, low pressure from a clogged aerator. Phoenix's hard water (12–23 GPG) clogs aerator screens and degrades cartridges faster than soft-water markets. Most repairs are in-and-out with common parts on the truck.
If the faucet is 10+ years old, has visible corrosion at the base, or has already had one repair in the past 3 years, replacement often makes more sense than another repair. A new faucet installation runs $250–$400 and includes new supply lines and angle stop inspection.
Full removal of the old faucet and installation of a new one. You can supply the faucet or we can source one. Either way, we inspect the angle stops, replace supply lines, and make sure everything underneath is clean and connected properly.
We recommend bringing your faucet to us for a quick look if you're buying it yourself — some discount fixtures have proprietary cartridges that make future repairs expensive. We'll tell you what we'd buy.
Most disposal calls are either a stuck flywheel (won't spin) or a dead motor. The difference matters — a stuck flywheel is a $125 fix; a dead motor means replacement. We diagnose before we quote.
Replacement — Good / Better / Best
Gets the job done for light use.
Handles everyday cooking waste without struggling.
Stainless grinding chamber, handles virtually anything.
The oval-handle shutoff valves under your kitchen sink control water to the faucet and dishwasher. In Phoenix homes, these are often original to the house — 15, 20, 30 years old. Corroded angle stops won't shut off when you need them to. We replace them proactively or when they fail.
Try turning them. If they're stiff, won't move, or have visible mineral buildup or green corrosion at the connections, they're overdue. A valve that hasn't been exercised in 10 years often won't close fully when you need it.
Under the kitchen sink: the P-trap (the curved pipe that holds water and blocks sewer gas), the drain basket, and the connections to the wall. Leaks here are common — usually from worn slip-joint washers or a cracked P-trap body.
Toilets either run constantly, won't flush properly, leak at the base, or need to be replaced. Most internal failures are inexpensive repairs. Replacement makes sense when the toilet itself is cracked, excessively old, or when the customer wants an upgrade.
Repair
Replacement — Good / Better / Best
1.28 GPF (meets current efficiency standards).
ADA-compliant seat height (17–19") — significantly more comfortable for adults.
Dual-flush with 0.8/1.28 GPF option — lowest water use. Wall-mount toilets: tank in wall, only bowl visible.
Bathroom faucets take a beating — daily use, hard water, toothpaste buildup. Most repairs are cartridge or aerator. Replacement is straightforward when the faucet is beyond repair or the customer wants an upgrade.
Repair
Replacement
Dripping shower, inconsistent temperature, handle that spins without engaging, or hot-only/cold-only output. Most of these are cartridge or seat/spring failures. Phoenix's hard water accelerates wear on all of these components.
If the valve body itself has failed — corroded seat, stripped body — that's a valve replacement. See shower valve pricing below ↓
When cartridge replacement isn't enough — corroded valve body, failed pressure-balance mechanism, or a valve that's simply at end of life. This involves opening the wall, removing the old valve body, installing a new one, and restoring the trim. Labor-intensive but done right once.
Prevents scalding when someone flushes a toilet elsewhere in the house. Standard in Phoenix homes built after 1994.
Maintains exact water temperature regardless of pressure changes elsewhere. Volume and temperature controlled independently.
Full thermostatic system with dedicated volume and diverter controls. Multiple outputs controlled independently.
Showerhead replacement is one of the simplest fixture swaps — but in Phoenix's hard water environment, scale-blocked showerheads are one of the most common complaints we hear. A new showerhead with a filter or self-cleaning nozzles makes a noticeable difference.
Under every sink and behind every toilet: angle stop valves. In Phoenix homes, these are often original — corroded, calcified, and unable to shut off when needed. We replace them before they become an emergency.
The hot and cold shutoff valves behind your washing machine. These are opened and closed every time you do laundry — they wear faster than most shutoffs in the house. Failure behind a running washing machine is a significant flood risk.
Rubber washing machine supply hoses burst without warning and cause significant water damage. We install braided stainless hoses only — the cost difference is minimal, the risk difference is enormous.
A recessed laundry box (also called an outlet box) mounts in the wall behind the washer and contains the hot and cold shutoffs and the drain standpipe connection — all in one clean, accessible unit. Replaces the old arrangement of exposed pipes and shutoffs sticking out of the wall.
The hoses between the shutoff valves and the washing machine. Rubber hoses should be replaced every 3–5 years. Braided stainless hoses are significantly more durable.
The outdoor faucet on the side of your house. In Phoenix, freeze protection is less critical than in colder climates, but hose bibs still corrode, leak at the packing, or wear out their washers. We repair when it makes sense and replace with frost-free models when it doesn't.
The main shutoff controls water to the entire house. In Phoenix homes, older gate valves (the multi-turn handle type) corrode and eventually fail to close fully — which means when you have an emergency, you can't stop the water. We replace them with quarter-turn ball valves that give you a positive on/off.
Turn the handle. A gate valve requires many turns to open or close and has an oval handle. A ball valve requires a quarter turn (90 degrees) and has a lever handle. If it's a gate valve and it's been there for 15+ years, it should be replaced before you need it in an emergency.
Phoenix municipal water comes in at high pressure — often 80–120 PSI at the meter. Residential plumbing is designed for 40–80 PSI. Without a PRV, high pressure causes premature failure of faucets, fixtures, appliance connections, and washing machine hoses. It's one of the most overlooked causes of plumbing problems in Phoenix homes.
Faucets and fixtures that fail frequently, banging pipes (water hammer), washing machine hose failures, or a hissing sound from the toilet. If your home's incoming pressure is over 80 PSI and you don't have a PRV, it's working against every fixture in the house.
We'll look at it and tell you exactly what it needs.
Call (480) 675-7861 (480) 675-7861